Chee Dale

Tuesday 10th February

Lily in Chee Dale

Today Lily and I dashed out far a quick jaunt to Chee Dale. After getting lost briefly we parked in Wormhill and walked down to the river. We headed upstream gazing across at Chee Tor, before prancing across stepping stones below the Cornice. We turned round after checking out some of the lines at Two Tier Buttress.



As we headed back it started snowing.

Scottish Winter

Weekend of the 6th and 7th of February

Dave B below a steepening on Tower Ridge. Photo Alexandre Buisse

Alexandre Buisse and I bivied in the North Face car park on Friday night before awaking at 5 am. We managed to set off up to the North Face of the Ben by 5.30 am heading for Tower Ridge. Pausing briefly at the CIC hut avalanches could be heard rumbling above us in the mists.

Progress slowed in the gully behind the Douglass Boulder where deep slow hindered progress. We pitched the initial step out of the gully and then moved together to the base of the little tower.

As we passed the top of The Great Chimney we were caught up by a camera man who was intending to film Andy Turner (whom Alex and I had climbed with in Utah) and Dave MacLeod as they topped out. They were apparently recreating Jimmy Marshall's legendary week on the Ben in 1960 where he climbed 6 big first assents and one major repeat. We left our regards and I led off up the Little Tower.

A mixture of moving together and the occasional pitch led to the top of the Great Tower and Tower Gap where we briefly waited behind another party who had just ascended Glovers Chimney. Soon we stood on the summit eating chocolate.

Sunday saw us romp up Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor before heading back to Sheffield.

A fantastic weekend that has left my calf muscles screaming.

Snowballing

Friday 29th of January saw Lily, Dan, and I out at Burbage North to take advantage of the conditions on offer.

Dave B below Three Blind Mice prior to platforming

The snow drifts under Three Blind Mice (normally E7 6c) rendered it a boulder problem and we set to work climbing it with glee. It was soon dispatched in its normal form and a left hand variant was attempted involving some disappointingly slopey holds.

A big team slowly assembled and the arete further right, Ai No Corrida (normally E5 6b) was platformed under and attempted. Dan and some others sent it but I lacked the necessary umph.

Dan gasping like a trout on Three Blind Mice

Saturday 30th involved a trip to Stanage for general bouldering and one more Snowball assent of Weather Report (normally E6 6c) which was fantastic if a little scary at the top. Lily styled her way through the difficulties before realising to her horror that the floor was now a reasonable distance below. Luckily Dan was on hand to "Beta" her up the final moves.

Another great day taking advantage of the unusual conditions.

Ryan on the left hand variant "Snow Blind Mice"

PS. Monday involved attempting to Boulder at Burbage West in the drizzle/snow so back to business as usual.

Mines, Hylldrem & Horseshoe

After a week of training at the Foundery I took a day off to head down Derbyshire Cavern. We paid no heed to remembering the route we took in and it took us a while to escape back to daylight.

On Saturday we were misled by the met office into going to Wales. Standing outside Eric's cafe at Tremadog in the rain it became apparent that Carreg Hylldrem was the only option. Under the capping overhangs it was dryish but drainage blocked many routes. I optimistically attempted Wildebeest E4 6a selectively ignoring the drainage streaks but pumped out contemplating the dripping holds.

It turned out to be totally claimable and went second go. A great (steep) route.

Monday saw me at Horseshoe in the rain. Grim.

Thaw and damp

We attempted to find some dry rock in the peak today.

After finding Eastwood Rocks wet hopes were low and a trip to Froggatt confirmed the only dry climbing was indoors.

Welsh winter & large bruises

I climbed in the Devil's Kitchen on Saturday with John.

John and I attempted the Devil's Appendix and climbed it eventually after one fall, two lost ice tools and a large lump of ice to my shoulder.

The bruise has turned a nice colour!

Peak Esoterica Number 3 – Central Gully – Mam Tor

It’s Christmas Eave 2009. I awake fuzzy headed with a list of things that need doing. My alarm has been set unforgivably early for such a day. The lethargy provoked by the early start is compounded by the after work Christmas beers the evening before.

Mam Tor Central Gully

I’m in Sheffield, I need to get to my Nan’s house in Kent, I have no Christmas presents and Central Gully on Mam Tor is in

Dave on Mam Tor Central Gully

 The snow blanketing the Peak has pushed all other priorities aside. I try to contain my impatience as I drive through Hathersage and Castleton, repeatedly almost loosing the back end on icy corners. Shortly after I pass the turning to Winnets Pass I accept defeat and park. Shouldering my bag I trudge up the snow-clad road to the south face of Mam Tor.

Mam Tor Right Hand Gully

The south face of Mam Tor is normally a shattered shale monstrosity, sloping rubble filled shelves tier upwards to the summit crowned by the remains of an ancient fort. Clambering the gullies to the summit is possible but seldom attempted. Now, plastered with snow and frozen mud it would give good sport. Due to the mist however I was yet to see it.

 Mam Tor in summer (not snow)

I rendezvous with John at the base and we geared up strapping on crampons and extracting ice tools from bags. I then followed as John set off. We soloed Central Gully before rushing down to climb a further two or three lines. Under those conditions it all felt about Grade III, the snow was firm but not neve, the mud below, firm but not frozen totally solid.

The road back down to Castleton

Medowhall was hell and the drive home worse but conditions have to be taken as the come…..