I'm bigtime
Chasing an indian summer or post monsoon season window of climbing opportunity plans were made for the South West.
Targets hatched. An unstoppable team assembled. Routes quite literally crumbled before us.
Staggering under the weight of a million small wires, a rigging rope, 100 meters of static, two 8mm half ropes and other gear we gained the top of Dyres Lookout.
I was psyched. This feature was epic, Once Upon a Time in the West, The Walk of Life and The Earth Sea Trilogy part 1. All amazing lines. All climbable by the strong and the talented. The Earth Sea Trilogy possibly climbable by me.
I was going to stack the odds in my favour. The new job and house renovation had led to the quietest spell in my climbing since 2003 so I needed all the help I could get. I abseiled in for a quick look.
Don't be mistaken. I was ticking holds, ticking gear placements, pulling on and trying moves. Onsite this was not. I unlocked moves downwards, penduling across the slab to clip directional runners then nothing.......
Blank rock. I pondered. This looked hard and bold. I swung across to the walk of life for a comparison, it had holds and gear. Swinging back I continued downwards passing a hold. I pulled on and the hold came off. Then I got to the bottom third, there was holds and gear a plenty. It looked piss. Reeve and I sat at the bottom comparing topo photos and route descriptions.
The middle had fallen down. The Earth Sea Trilogy part 1 was no more.
In consolation next time someone asks:
"So you go climbing do you?"
"er yes"
"do you go abseiling as well?"
"hell yes, I've abseiled the hardest trad route in the country, I'm bigtime."
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